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  • Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna

    This morning we visited the pyramids of the sun and moon.

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    These large pyramids are made of adobe.

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    The adobe bricks are made out of mud, which is formed into a brick and then left in the sun to dry. Then they are stacked and extra mud is added in between layers as mortar.

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    Most of the bricks are about normal brick size, but some of the ones for the wall outside were much larger.

    imageSome of the bricks had marks indicating which family made them. Brick making was like paying taxes, each family had to contribute a certain number to the construction of the temple.

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    They were built between 100CE and 700CE  by the Moche people.

    Before the pyramids were excavated they just looked like giant dirt hills in the desert.

    The temple of the sun has not been excavated at all.

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    It was the larger of the two temples with 11 levels, and about 140 million mud bricks, but the Spanish conquistadors diverted the river to destroy about 3/4 of it.

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    There was once a small City between the two pyramids.

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    This is what they think it looked like.

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    They are starting to excavate some of the other buildings.

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    The temple of the moon is built right at the base of a small mountain, which was considered sacred. It is about 290m wide by 210m long, and 32m tall.

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    This is what it looked like in 1998, before they started excavating.

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    Inside the temple at the base of the mountain they found evidence of sacrifices.

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    The remains of a wall are found in front of the pyramid, running toward the mountain.

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    The brick walls were covered with more clay, engraved with designs and painted.

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    They have a weird blocky appearance, like old video game villains.

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    This temple of the moon had five floors, but only one was used at a time.

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    When the bottom floor was full, they would fill in the entire floor with bricks and build a new level on top. This eventually resulted in a pyramid shape, over a period of almost 600 years.

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    This guy was Ai apaec, their main god, who created the Universe.

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    This is him again, but from the floor above. He looks similar, but this one was drawn about 70 years after the first one, and the first one was already buried.

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    There were other murals depicting more minor gods, but they are not as well preserved.

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    The Moche had no written language and disappeared in the 7th century. Thus we don’t know very much about these characters.

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    But this guy doesn’t seem very happy.

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    One area was decorated with a man being pounced on by a large cat, over and over again.

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    One place had these coloured spirals.

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    This is the facade of the temple. It faced away from the desert winds, so it was covered by sand but not eroded by the blowing sand.

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    The layers are covered in very intricate murals.

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    Each row had something different, repeated over and over. One row was men holding hands.

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    And one row was men carrying things.

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    Then came a row of the god that archaeologists have nicknamed spiderman.

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    Above that is less well preserved and harder to see from the ground, but there is another row of men, followed by some two-headed serpents.

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    There was a large mural at the bottom on the left hand side.

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    Archaeologists aren’t sure what most of it means, but they think this section represents some sort of fight, and the winner is holding up the head of the loser while the vultures eat the loser’s remains.

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    There is definitely a lot of stuff going on in the mural.

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    I’m pretty sure this is one of the toys from the Grinch Who Stole Christmas.

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    It was a pretty impressive temple.

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  • Lord of Sipan Museum

    The Huaca Rajada temple was built by the Moche people about 300 CE. It was rediscovered in 1987 by grave robbers, but fortunately they got into a fight and were caught by police, who recovered most of the artefacts. They are now featured in the Lord of Sipan museum, which has lots of gold and jewellery.

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    They didn’t allow pictures, so we’re stuck with what we could find on the internet again.

    The main body, nicknamed the “Lord of Sipan”, was 1.63 meters tall and about 35 years old when he died. He was buried with his wife, two concubines, a 10 year old child, and three warriors, which were missing their feet. One of the warriors was positioned cross legged as a lookout above the tomb. There was also a dog and two llamas. This is a recreation of his grave as they think it was when he was buried.

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    And this is how they found it.

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    He was buried with a ton of jewellery. What wouldn’t fit on him was layered above and below him. Almost like they didn’t want anyone to think anything might have belonged to anyone else in the tomb. The wife did have a shell necklace (better than the concubines) but it wasn’t as pretty as his.

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    He also had a necklace made of gold and silver peanuts.

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    A second tomb contains a priest, and the third one another Lord with a wife and warrior.

    One of the things found in another tomb was this crab-man figure.

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    And this spider-man broach.

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  • Zorritos

    We had a day to relax on the beach in Zorritos, just across the border from Ecuador in Peru.

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    We liked the Ecuador beaches much better.

    The dogs here are ugly and hairless.

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    The sand was coarse and mixed with clay.

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    The view of the horizon is ruined by offshore oil wells.

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    It was cloudy all day.

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    Even though we are in the desert.

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    But not deep enough in the desert to avoid mosquitos. And while the coast of Ecuador is malaria free, here we have to take anti-malarials and worry about dengue. Of course between the permethrin treated clothing, bug spray and bed nets we brought we didn’t actually see a single mosquito. Most of the rest of our group have bites though.

    But there were hammocks on the beach.

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    And in front of our room.

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    And the beach was covered in ghost crabs in the morning.

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    Which are still very cute.

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    And these little guys, which I think are baby ghost crabs. They camouflage with the sand.

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    This is a wave washing over a ghost crab. You can see the hole where he blocked the water, and the two little bumps in the foam where his eye stocks are.

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    Here he is after.

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    There were also lots of birds.

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    Some of them were really chubby.

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    And noisy.

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    There was a lot of fishing in the morning.

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    The mockingbirds were also really noisy.

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  • Escape from Ecuador

    We had a great last few days in Ecuador and were quite lucky to get such nice weather. We were able to see the top of the volcano that was hidden at the swing.

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    The furthest point from the center of the earth.

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    This is it again from another angle as we continued south.

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    The landscapes were stunning with the steep Andean hills being farmed as we weaved between and around them.

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    Past fields of bananas.

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    Often planted so close to the highway it made me carsick to watch them whip by.

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    And said goodbye to our Ecuadorian guide, Joanna (she’s the one in orange).

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  • Cuenca

    Cuenca was a pretty city.

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    It had republican style architecture instead of the colonial we had seen previously.

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    There is a large flower market near the Cathedral.

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    This is where most of our roses are imported from. Here they are 20 for $1.

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    This arrangement is $5.

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    The city has four rivers passing through it and this is one of them that we saw on our night walk when we got to town.

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    This is a quinceanera party. It is kind of the equivalent of a “sweet 16” party, except it’s on the 15th birthday, and looks like (and costs as much) as a wedding ceremony, complete with a giant dress, bridesmaids, and a boyfriend that walks you down the aisle of the church.

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    Lots of pink, including on the car which was dressed up like a wedding car.

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    This used to be an old bank, but now it is their city hall. They use lots of pink marble in the city.

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    There were some ruins in Cuenca in a park by the river but it was all fenced off so we couldn’t get any closer. They looked interesting but no idea what culture they may have been from as several cultures were present in this area.

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