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  • The Route to the Colca Canyon

    This is the town of Chivay in the mountains and where we stayed for a night.

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    It has 8000 people, all farmers. (Though there is a growing tourism industry for the Colca canyon).

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    The farms (and walls) are over 600 years old.

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    Everywhere you looked there were terraces.

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    Since we were here in the rainy season everything was still green and growing.

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    We had many stops along the way to check out the canyon as the river wound through area.

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    The whole valley is quite deep so the views were spectacular.

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    The Colca canyon is one of the deepest canyons but the sides are much more gradually slopped as opposed to the grand canyon which have very vertical sides. This is partially due to the seismic activity in the area which regularly causes rockslides and workers were clearing the road from some debris that had fallen recently.

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  • Highest Point

    This is the highest point we are likely to reach on our trip, at 4910m above sea level. It is over 500m higher than the highest point in the rockies, and 741m higher than Mauna Loa, our previous highest point. From here you can see several even higher points.

    This is Vulcan Hualca Hualca, which is 6025m.

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    This is Vulcan Sabancayo, at 5976m.

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    This is Volcan Ampato, at 6288m.

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    This would be Volcan Chachani, at 6075m.

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    These are the highest washrooms in Peru, at 4915m. They have no doors, and the toilet is just a hole in the ground.

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    This is Kerri and Matt, at 4912m.

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  • Pisco Sours

    This evening our group leader Carol taught us to make Pisco Sours.

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    Pisco is a type of white brandy. Grape wine is distilled to 42% alcohol. Pisco acholado is the best type to use for Pisco Sours, it is made from a blend of different types of grape. We used a 2L bottle but had 500mL left over.

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    We bought 3kg of limes for $4.80 at the local market.

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    750mL Jarabe de Goma (sugar syrup)

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    1.5L of ice cubes

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    2 egg whites.

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    Wash the limes.

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    Slice them in half.

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    Squeeze the juice into a bowl.

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    Do not squeeze too aggressively because you don’t want the bitterness from the peel.

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    Strain the lime juice.

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    Into a blender pour 3 parts pisco, 2 parts lime juice, 1 part syrup.

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    Blend for 10 seconds.

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    Taste. Add more syrup if necessary .

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    Add ice and a small amount of egg white and blend.

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    Pour into glasses. We garnished the glasses with sugar and lime slices.

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    Before drinking you have to do the traditional toast.

    Hold glass up high: Arriba!

    Hold glass low: A bajo!

    Hold glass in the middle: A centro!

    Drink: Al dentro!


  • Arequipa Market

    As a part of our orientation and walking tour we went to the market. It was very organized into different areas. Those for fish.

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    The area for organ meats.

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    The beautiful area for fruits. They also were the nicest looking fruits we had seen so far. The pomegranates needed to be eaten but we kept it to just buying one to eat that night.

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    This was a fruit from the coast valley called chirimoya, but didn’t have any so no idea what it tastes like.

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    They had lots of aguaymanto.

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    And the rest but these ones are much easier to identify as most of these are at home.

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    In Peru they have a few types of potatoes. The Inkas actually cultivated over 100 varieties, there were quite a few available here.

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    They also have lots of types of corn, including the purple corn which is used for juice.

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    There were other types of corn and grains available.

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    Some kernels were more purple than others.

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    There was also a section where flowers were sold.

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    These are coca leaves. Locally they are chewed with a bit of an alkaline substance to release a small dose of cocaine, which acts as a stimulant and is supposed to relieve altitude sickness. They are also sometimes used to make tea. Internationally they are illegal, because they are used to make cocaine.

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    Some members of our group tried frog juice. It involves putting a boiled frog in a blender.

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    With soy milk, chia, and miscellaneous powders purported to cure things.

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    To make a disgusting looking drink.

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    Those that did try it did not seem thrilled. They described it as tasting like a warm milkshake, or a protein shake. Possibly due to the graininess of the seeds, or perhaps the ground bones of the frog.

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    The last section of the market was the witches market, which contained a collection of decorated llama fetuses.

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    Necklaces and bracelets.

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    Llama fetus skeletons.

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    Little bags of random Catholic paraphernalia.

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    Big bags of random Catholic paraphernalia.

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    And herbal supplements. Yes, all at the same tiny little booth.

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    This llama fetus got a diaper for some reason.

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  • Nazca Lines

    The lines are found on a desert plateau that stretches more than 80km near the foothills of the Andes. They were made by the Nazca culture between 400 and 650 CE.

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    Most of the lines are on the flat desert ground.

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    But some are on the mountains.

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    And some are even half vertical so they could likely be seen from the ground.

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    The plateau  is covered with a thin layer of dark reddish iron rich stones and sand. The big stones are grapefruit sized.

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    Underneath is fine, pale sand. The lines were formed by disturbing the top reddish layer to expose the pale layer underneath. Most of the lines are between 10cm and 15cm deep.

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    The desert is one of the driest on earth, which has preserved the lines for 1500 years. There is wind, which often forms these little dust devils, but that mostly seems to clean the light dust off of the heavier dark stones.

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    They also had a bunch of help in the last century from a mathematician named Maria Reiche. She wrote “the wind has obscured them by filling them with small dark pebbles from the surrounding surface like grain, making them difficult to detect from the air. To make them more accessible for viewing I cleaned them with a broom, one broom after another throughout the years. I went through so many brooms rumours circulated that I might be a witch!”

    Some of the lines are 9km long, but the animal figures are much smaller. Some are only 4m across.

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    The lines can barely be seen from the ground. If you are right in front of one, it looks like a path.

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    But you don’t have to get very high up to see them. From about 6 feet in the air (11 feet including our height) you can tell they are there.

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    And by 16 feet in the air you can clearly make out the shape.

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    From the top of this viewing platform you can see two of them.

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    You can also see several of the geometric shapes from this natural hill, but there are no animal shaped ones nearby.

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    It takes about 5 minutes to climb.

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    And this is the view:

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    You can see most of them from the foothills, but it seems because some of the glyphs are on the mountains you don’t seem to be able to climb them anymore.

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    But they are best seen from the air.

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    So we took a flight in a small airplane over the desert.

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    The popular figures have names. The Nazca had no written language and we don’t know much about them, so they were named by people who saw them flying over. Many have multiple names because people can’t agree what they look like. This is the whale/orca (65m).

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    The owlman/astronaut (35m)

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    The monkey (93 m by 58 m)

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    The dog (53m)

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    The condor (134 m)

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    The spider (46m)

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    The hummingbird (93 m long)

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    The parrot (230m)

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    The hands/the frog (50m)

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    and the tree (70m).

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    A triangle. (There are many.)

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    There are also a lot of random ones that aren’t very popular so it’s hard to find names and sizes for them.

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    And random patches of lines and spirals and trapezoids, some of which have been wrecked by vehicles.

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